As usual, I spent the night before my
flight with Jesse and Andrew at their place in London. They found a great, old cemetery down the
road from their flat and have wanted to show it to me since I first visited
them, but it has always been closed. This
time, however, it was open. We spent the
night watching From Russia with Love
and eating cheese I brought them as a bribe to let me stay with them.
I left the next morning for the
airport.
As I was flying in over Moscow I took a few pictures on my iPhone (having an iPhone really helps when travelling, if for no other reason than the camera).
When I got off the plane and went thru
security I had a strange moment at the immigration desk. After checking my visa and stamping my
passport, the man on the other side of the bulletproof glass handed me my
passport and said, in a very thick, guttural accent ‘Good luck.’ My sphincter clenched instantly. Having a Russian government official say that
to you as his way of welcoming you into his country is, well, slightly
unnerving, even if I am obviously reading more into it than was meant.
Moscow from the air. |
Tom met me at the airport and we went back
to his place. Tom bought us some beers
to drink on the train as we went into the city.
Later, when we were walking from the metro to his apartment, we had some
more beer. It was strange walking down
the street and just drinking beer, but in Russia it is allowed (I guess).
The metro in Moscow is beautiful. The Soviets decorated the stations like each
was a mini-museum, showing off Soviet propaganda in brass and marble. The one thing I can say that is better in
Moscow than London is the metro. It is
cleaner, bigger, the trains come more frequently and the decorations are full
of history. There is a circular metro
line that creates a perfect circle right in the middle of the city. Tom told me an apocryphal story of its
creation: the builders of the metro were showing Stalin their plans for the
various metro lines, when Stalin put his cup of coffee in the middle of the
paper. When he removed his cup the
outline of a circle was stained onto the paper.
Too afraid what might happen if they questioned Stalin about the circle,
they just built the circular metro line.
Tom lives in a Soviet apartment block near
the centre of Moscow. It was really cool
to see it. It consisted of a wide
hallway with three bedrooms, a tiny storage room, a full bathroom, a half
bathroom and a small kitchen, all off the hallway. There is no living room, but if it were a
family apartment (instead of having rooms let out) Tom's room would have been
used for that, since it is the largest.
Tom said it is the nicest place he has lived in in all the times he has
been to Russia.
Since I arrived so late that is all we did.
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